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the week ending August 4, 2019 – la semaine se terminant le 4 août 2019

05 Monday Aug 2019

Posted by philipdenotto in 2019-France

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Boulangerie de la cathédrale, brocante, chez marcel, corsairs malouins, debarquement, digue, el galeon andalucia, entre mer et plage, esplanade saint-vincent, Etoile du roy, gavroche, hotel quic-en-groigne, intermarche, kennedy bus stop, le français, Le pays malouin, Les Corsaires Malouins, paimpol, Place du Marché aux Légumes, plage du mole, porte de dinan, rocabey, Saint-Servan, scottish terrier, solider tower

lundi 29 juillet 2019 – Monday July 29, 2019

The temperature in our apartment this morning was 20C (68F). So much better than a few days last week. The forecast in western France is for very strong winds this afternoon and evening-up to 100 kph (62 mph). That should significantly affect the high tide today.

We wanted to walk along the digue (seawall) this morning and walked towards the Esplanade Saint-Vincent where the bus stop is located. A bus #8, which follows the coast was parked at the stop. We decided to take it to the end of the digue and then walk back. Convenient! Usually this bus is jam packed with people wanting to go to various beaches. Not today. We got off at the Kennedy bus stop and walked along the digue. The tide was out, lots of sea weed at this first beach but very breezy. It was the only place along the entire 4 kilometer walk that we saw a significant amount of sea weed.

  • Beach to the north
  • Beach to the south

Once we reached the Intra-Muros most all of the parking spots were full. Only the underground location had a line to enter and showed spaces remaining. We read in the paper that yesterday was the “change-over weekend” where people vacationing for the month of July were returning and people coming to vacation for August were arriving. We couldn’t see any difference or increase in numbers yet.

We had a nice if brief visit to the Plage du Môle to cool off in the ocean.

  • busy beach with the green flag flying to indicate it is okay to swim
  • Sandy in the ocean but not swimming at the moment.

mardi 30 juillet 2019 – Tuesday, July 30, 2019

It rained over night, but we didn’t hear a thing since our building is made from granite. The weather forecast was for rain and wind this afternoon.

As we walked past the basin this morning we saw the Spanish ship El Galeón Andulucia. It had come in yesterday for a 4 or 5 day visit.

The Spanish ship El Galeón in the basin.

We decided to walk to Saint-Servan, stop at the market, then head to the beach near the Solidor Tower where there is a brocante, an antique sale and flea market every Tuesday. Sandy wore a jacket for the first time since the evening of the July 14th fireworks. The wind hit us in the face as soon as we exited Intra-Muros. It was a constant 25 kph from the southwest with gusts around 40 kph. We held on to each other as we crossed the bridge. There seemed to be a lot of empty parking lots today. Maybe people returned home or stayed away with the weather forecast.

At the marché Sandy wanted round zucchini, having seen so many last Saturday. None today! She bought a yellow pepper and normal shaped zucchini instead. There were only about one third of the usual exterior stalls at the market. We also purchased a little meat at the butcher.

We walked towards the beach in Saint-Servan. Again, the wind was very strong. At the Solidor brocante only about half of the normal amount of displays were outside today.

We walked back over the bridge to return and decided it was too windy to stay outside any longer. We felt like we had fought the wind the entire 4 kilometer trip. In the afternoon there were at least 3 different rain showers. None of them lasted very long or were very strong but the wind continued.

mercredi 31 juillet 2019 – Wednesday 31 July 2019

The last day of July! Where did our time go and how could tomorrow be August already? Lovely cool but sunny morning. The wind from yesterday has moved on. Sandy read in the local paper about two events yesterday. The first, a sailboat with 4 passengers had capsized in the wind and had to be rescued by helicopter. The second, a swimmer, had to be rescued. Both articles repeated warnings to everyone to be aware of the weather when entering water either on foot or on a boat. Ditto for Michigan!!

Sandy met with Christine today. Christine’s daughter, who lives in Paris, is getting married on 12 September 2020 in Saint-Malo. The next year will be exciting for them.

Our afternoon walk again proved interesting. No boules game, possibly due to the wet court, but there was a lot of action on the ramp leading to the ocean. Since this is the 75th anniversary of the Liberation of France there are lots of activities to commemorate the event. There was a group of men dressed in American army uniforms from WW II, a jeep, a tow truck, another vehicle, and the landing craft docked a little way out into the water from the ramp. All of the vehicles appeared to be from the WW II period. We watched, along with many other people, while the soldiers backed the vehicles down the ramp, waded into the ocean, and parked the vehicles on the landing craft. The landing craft had it’s front ramp lowered into the water and indicated it was from Normandy. With all four vehicles, plus a group of men, it moved off slowly into the English Channel. It was bound for Granville on the Cotentin Peninsula in Normandy.

We will have more about the World War II reenactments as we get closer to the date of the liberation of Saint-Malo by the American Army under General Patton on August 17, 1944.

jeudi 1 août 2019 – Thursday August 1, 2019

Cool, humid, and cloudy this morning. We purchased new monthly bus passes and started to walk to the Intermarché. Along the basin we saw the Etoile du Roy and the Le Français leaving the basin for their trip to Paimpol where there is a large festival scheduled for the next few days.

Paimpol is also home to the bi-annual “Festival du chant de marin” (sea shanty festival) which attracts thousands of visitors over three days in August.

Wikipedia contributors, “Paimpol,” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Paimpol&oldid=897649307 (accessed August 4, 2019).
Le Français setting out for Paimpol for the festival.

We did our shopping at the Intermarché grocery store and stopped at the Rocabey market. Sandy purchased two cordon bleu pieces and a piece of Comte cheese by herself. All went well.

As we walked to the bus stop to return, one of the lady boules players arrived. We greeted her and she responded with a smile and a “bonjour”. Nice to be recognized.

Our local paper, Le Pays Malouin (the Malouin country) had many articles concerning the military reenactments which use equipment like we saw at the harbor ramp yesterday.

Chez Marcel was our choice for dinner tonight. They are famous for kebabs. Not the “shish kebobs” that are well known in the USA but shredded lamb, shredded lettuce, fresh tomatoes all piled high in a pita type flat bread. The kebabs are served with belgian style fries and are delicious with their “fait maison” (home made) white sauce.

After eating we enjoyed an ice cream cone, chocolate for Phil, and rhubarb for Sandy from Sanchez as we waited for entertainment. Each Thursday night in August the Les Corsaires Malouins singers sing “Sea Shanties” from the area. To be included as a member of this group you not only have to have been born in Saint-Malo, but also still reside here. There were about 14 singers present last night.

vendredi 2 août 2019 – Friday August 2, 2019

Today was a day of high tide with a co-efficient of 100. We walked to the Porte de Dinan to see the ocean before shopping at the boulangerie. There were only 4 rows of stones showing at the top of the wall. Good thing there was little wind today or there would have been a lot of flooding. There were several warnings in the newspaper reminding tourists to be careful where they park. We’ve seen many cars underwater due to careless parking during a high tide.

Only about 4 rows of blocks are not covered by the high tide water.
The ramp at the harbor under water due to the high tide. The water is crystal clear.

Stopped in to visit with our friends Marie-Dominique and her husband Michel at their HÔTEL QUIC EN GROIGNE. Their hotel is listed as #1 hotel in Saint-Malo. We stayed with them the first two times we visited Saint-Malo for vacations back in 2010 and 2011. They were fine and so is their family.

Our next stop was the post office for stamps and a quick stop at a gallery where we purchased two inexpensive watercolors of the local area. We want to replace two pictures in our bedroom in Michigan and these will look great.

The line at the Boulangerie de la cathédrale at 11h.

We stopped at the boutique named Entre Mer et Plage to buy a key caddy. We found one made out of metal with three sailboats. Very appropriate for here.

Finally we stopped to see our friend Jean-Louis Jacob at his pottery boutique. Sandy purchased a candle for us to take to Michigan and another small gift. He had new fabric bags this year with his logo and Saint-Malo-Quimper on the front. He gave us two since we are good friends and also customers. It was a successful and enjoyable morning.

After watching the boules game for over an hour we headed to the harbor to check out the tide. This mornings 4 rows of stones showing turned into 28 rows of stones showing this afternoon. In fact, the entire wall was out of the water.

In the afternoon the complete wall of granite blocks was out of the water.

samedi 3 août 2019 – Saturday August 3, 2019

On our way to Saint-Servan this morning, we stopped to look at the high tide. It was about the same level as yesterday with a co-efficient of 104.

Saint-Servan was having their summer street wide flea market and we love to look at everything. We didn’t buy a thing, but wandered through the streets for over 5 kilometers, just browsing.

  • Saint-Servan braderie
  • Saint-Servan braderie
  • Saint-Servan braderie

On the way back from Saint-Servan we walked through the Solidor area by the harbor. It always seemed like we walked here at low tide, but today it was a beautiful high tide.

  • Some of the flowers in …
  • … the Solidor area of Saint-Servan.
  • Sandy by a flower bed in the Solidor area of Saint-Servan in Saint-Malo. The Tower Solidor is in the backgroud.

Before going to the apartment, we stopped at the harbor and saw this interesting site, a dog getting off a boat with its life jacket on. Cute and its owners care about its safety.

This dog just got off a boat and still had its life jacket on. Its owners care!

And we also saw the new rescue boat for the fire department.

New rescue boat for the fire department.

We watched the boules game in the afternoon and Pierre talked to Phil about joining them as a player next year. Sandy always thought Pierre had been a professor and Phil asked him. He taught music, especially the coronet. Another player, Philippe owns a white Scottish Terrier named Gavroche. He is a darling dog and very photogenic.

  • Gavroche
  • Gavroche
  • Gavroche
  • Gavroche napping in the sun

Lots, and lots of people with children in town today.

dimanche 4 août 2019 – Sunday August 4, 2019

Happy Anniversary to us! 46 years of marriage today.

We walked to Rocabey to look at the braderie (flea market) sponsored by the Handicapped Society of France. It is a very small event with only 4 tents. The items for sale have been donated by families when someone dies. There was a table full of books, religious artifacts, linens, and antiques / old, but not antique, household goods. Sandy always wants to teach them to organize the linens, but they just heap 4 folding tables with everything. If you’re looking for a pillowcase you literally have to search through dozens of other items. You might be lucky and find something or not.

We walked back along the ocean just after high tide. There was almost no beach all up and down the coast.

  • Looking North no beach!
  • Looking South no beach!

The weather forecast listed the air quality here as “Excellent!” today. We think it’s excellent everyday.

For our mid-afternoon 46th Wedding Anniversary dinner we again ate at the B’Art à Thé on the Place du Marché aux Légumes. We had a nice surprise, we got to taste the chilled cantaloupe melon soup. It was very good. The meal was delicious!

Chilled cantaloupe melon soup

How to view additional photos.

You can view an album of photos by clicking one of the following links. The photo album will open in a new browser window with the photos.

Click here for all the July photos in France

Click here for all the June photos in France

Click here for photos of La Roseraie Saint-Anne

Click here for the photos in Paris

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the week ending July 21, 2019 – la semaine se terminant le 21 juillet 2019

22 Monday Jul 2019

Posted by philipdenotto in 2019-France

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"A.R.C. GLORIA", "giant balloons", "pirate flag", azzura, braderie, cherry picker, COLOMBIA, e leclerc, kevano, MHM, orangina, Paramé, Place du Marché aux Légumes, rocabey, Saint-Servan

lundi 15 juillet 2019 – Monday July 15, 2019

Spectacular fireworks last night, the 14th, with thousands of viewers, music, and entertainment. (cool enough for even Phil to wear a jacket and comment on how cool it was). It was very quiet this morning. Lovely to have been able to FACETIME with Michael yesterday afternoon. He looks good and so does the cat. He’s had quite a busy summer with a lot of traveling so he couldn’t make it here this year. Hopefully, next year he will make a visit.

We needed to buy milk and wanted to take a walk along the seawall (digue in French). We walked to the Courtoisville Carrefour Market through town because the wind was blowing very strong on the digue. This market is bigger than our Intra-Muros Carrefour City and busier.

  • the AZZURA, from Vail Colorado, strange since Vail is in the mountains
  • just a nice flag
  • Children’s play area flying the PIRATE flag.

We returned along the digue where many people were enjoying the beautiful, clear day. A wonderful 5 kilometer walk!

mardi 16 juillet 2019 – Tuesday, July 16, 2019

We were up early and out of our apartment before 7h45 am today. The ship “A.R.C. Gloria” from Columbia was scheduled to arrive in Saint-Malo between 8h and 9h. ARC stands for “Armada Nacional de la República de Colombia.” The ship was built in 1967. It is 76 meters long and 10 meters wide, and is the training ship of the Colombian Navy.

From the Saint-Malo tourism site: “At the arrival ceremony, which will begin at 8h at the breakwater at the entrance of the port, the ship will deploy a giant flag of Colombia and will shoot 19 shots greeting gun. Visitors will be able to tour the boat docked, from 16 to 19 July.”

There were probably at least a hundred people waiting with us on the breakwater to view the ship. The ship had a huge Colombian flag at its stern. As the ship entered the harbor, we counted the 19 cannon shots and Colombian music played from the A.R.C. Gloria. It was very interesting to watch and listen to. We recorded the arrival of the A.R.C. Gloria in the video below. Be sure your audio volume is not muted.

Watch the A.R.C. GLORIA entering the harbor, playing Colombian music.

It was quite impressive as sailors were standing on all five levels of the masts and dressed in each color of the Colombian flag; yellow, blue and red.

  • A.R.C. Gloria with sailors standing on the yardarms.
sailors on the yardarms (spars) - 1 red, 1 blue, 4 yellow - Notice the sailor at the very top of the mast.
sailors on the yardarms (spars) – 1 red, 1 blue, 4 yellow – Notice the sailor at the very top of the mast.

In the afternoon, an organization that features local products was in Saint-Malo. The organization, their staff, and van travel Brittany and stop at a different locale each day. We’d wanted to see their display last year but missed it. We waited in line for about 10 minutes in order to “spin the wheel” to see if we won a prize. Sandy spun the wheel and landed on “KEVANO” which is from the Breton language and translates to “Au revoir” in French which then translates in English to “Sorry, you didn’t win.” Phil’s spin landed on “Suprise!” He had a choice of three different prizes, all from this area. First offer was a can of beef tongue, second was a glass jar of fish soup, and the third, which we chose was a 1 liter carton of milk from the Saint-Malo dairy. Everyone received a “goody bag” with a bag of Breizh chips, a Madeleine (cookie), a sticker, and a key chain. Certainly worth the 10 minute wait in line. We’ll be sure to stop again next year.

  • Sandy did not win a prize.
  • Phil did win a prize.

In the evening, we had invited our friends Jean-Louis and Claudine for an apéritif. This is a normal way in France to have friends to your house around 18h, but not prepare a meal. We served roasted chicken rillette on small slices of bread, Boursin cheese on bread with raisins on top, tapenade noire (black olive paste with anchovies) on bread, peanuts, dried fruit mix, fresh strawberries, fresh cherry tomatoes, cubes of cheese (flavored with tomatoes, ham, blue cheese), sesame crackers, and ham rolled around cheese. If the snacks are plentiful, and they were, this is a substitute for an early dinner. We spent a very enjoyable two hours with them with tentative plans to meet them at a restaurant before we leave in August.

mercredi 17 juillet 2019 – Wednesday 17 July 2019

Sandy likes to program our washer at night so the laundry is ready to hang on the line by the time she’s out of the shower in the morning. She feels lucky to have a machine that is a combination washer and dryer as most people here only have a washer. She prefers to hang clothes on the line on our balcony or extra bedroom, but uses the dryer for towels or when it’s not a good day to dry. Today, everything was on the line by 8h30.

After breakfast we waited in line for 10 minutes to board the ship A.R.C Gloria from Colombia. We were amazed at how high the rigging really is when standing on the deck. The sailors standing at attention yesterday along the sails, as it entered the locks, do NOT have a fear of heights!

  • The masts and yardarms
  • Sandy and Phil on the A.R.C. GLORIA

Next we walked to the temporary Musée d’Histoire Maritime (MHM) of Saint-Malo. The old silos along the docks were torn down and a new museum is being constructed in their place. The projected completion of the project is 2022, two years before the Olympics take place in Paris. We had a private tour of the proposition, photos, and explanation of the plan. It will be beautiful when finished! There was also a 5 minute video to explain the project.

Sandy by a drawing of how the MHM museum will look in 2022 when it opens.

Sandy loved the folding chairs they provided while watching the film. Very comfortable!!. She is sure they are just the right chairs we need at FUMC in Holland, lightweight and fold-able.

the comfortable chairs

jeudi 18 juillet 2019 – Thursday 18 July 2019

It was cloudy, cool with a chance of showers this morning.

In the afternoon Phil shopped at the E.Leclerc hypermarché while Sandy met with her French tutor Christine. He was still able to buy rhubarb yogurt and pineapple yogurt, our very favorite flavors!

Later in the afternoon we took a walk to the beach. The city was having a “sand and wind” afternoon on the beach. There were giant kites of green fish, orange fish, a hammerhead shark with its baby behind it, and a school of fish. There had originally been an octopus, but he was deflated so there must have been issues with it. The headline in the Ouest-France newspaper for this event was “Flying Fish in the Saint-Malo heaven.”

  • hammerhead balloon
  • fish balloon
  • hammerhead baloon
  • many small fish kites
  • fish balloons

vendredi 19 juillet 2019 – Friday 19 July, 2019

Sandy bought deux cents grammes de haricots verts, 200 grams of green beans, at our market. The green beans here are consistently very thin, with almost nothing to stem. You only have to cook the green beans for 5 minutes to have them al dente (slightly crisp). It took Sandy a few years to be able to order food in grams, but now she knows how to ask.

Haricot Vert – Green Bean

We also purchased another bouquet of flowers from the florist. We asked the name, can’t remember it now, but the red appears to be small fruit instead of flowers. Very pretty though.

bouquet from the florist in the Intra-Muros marché

We walked to Saint-Servan marché to buy meat from the butcher and cheese from the fromagerie. We asked for cent cinquante grammes de fromage emmental râpé (150 grams of shredded emmental cheese-similar to Swiss but a little milder). This was the first time to purchase cheese at the market. In the past, we bought it at the grocery store. Getting braver!

The young lady assistant was back at the butcher. She not been there the last week or so. She said she’d been sick and pointed to her stomach. Doing much better now. She is very nice and practices her English with Sandy.

We took the bus from the Saint-Servan neighborhood of Saint-Malo to Rocabey neighborhood to get a couple of items at the Intermarché. We then walked home along the basin. We walked a little over 5 kilometers on this little excursion to two different parts of Saint-Malo.

samedi 20 juillet 2019 – Saturday July 20, 2019

Today was the day of the Grande Braderie de Paramé. We took the bus to Paramé and planned to walk home. After attending for several years, we know that the bus route to Paramé has a detour and it’s easier to walk home along the digue. Over 250 individuals and small, local business owners set up tables and stands for their annual flea market. It was packed as usual. We didn’t buy anything, but spent over an hour looking at a lot of stuff!

  • crowd at the Paramé braderie
  • crowd at the Paramé braderie

On the way back to the apartment, we stopped along the Boulevard Rochebonne at a boulangerie to have a croissant and drink an Orangina. We ate our snack at a table in front of the boulangerie. After our snack we continued down the street toward the digue and the ocean. We walked home along the digue and enjoyed the sounds and sights of the high tide.

The total trip was over 9000 steps and we were tired when we climbed our 34 stairs.

After a rest we walked to the Place du Marché aux Legumes and the restaurant B’Art à Thé for lunch. This is the new restaurant we had dinner at last week. We each tried a different dish and loved everything we had, including a wonderful chocolate, hazelnut dessert. Wow!

  • bruschetta and a torte
  • chocolate cake & ice cream

Late in our afternoon we got a text from our son Michael. The electricity is off in his part of Grand Rapids and was not expected to be back on until Sunday night. So he and his cat Kima are having a little vacation at our apartment in Holland. Glad to accommodate them!

dimanche 21 juillet 2019 – Sunday July 21, 2019

Today we took the bus to a flea market (braderie or vide grenier (attic cleanout)) which was held in the neighborhood of the Saint-Malo Hospital. Our friend Alain is one of the organizers of the vide grenier and he also works at the refreshment stand.

When we got back to the apartment there was a bit of excitement on our street. A person in the building next to us had fallen ill and an ambulance had been called to get him to the hospital. The ambulance staff were unable to get the man down the stairs so the fire department had to be called. They used one of their trucks which has a cherry picker to get a stretcher through a window into the 3rd floor apartment. The man was strapped into the stretcher and the fireman in the cherry picker lowered him to the ground. From there the ambulance took him to the hospital. We hope he is okay.

  • firemen getting the cherry picker ready
  • cat watching the cherry picker
  • the cherry picker maneuvering into position

How to view additional photos.

You can view an album of photos by clicking one of the following links. The photo album will open in a new browser window with the photos.

Click here for all the June photos in France

Click here for photos of La Roseraie Saint-Anne

Click here for the photos in Paris

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