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the week ending August 11, 2019 – la semaine se terminant le 11 août 2019

12 Monday Aug 2019

Posted by philipdenotto in 2019-France

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

braderie, cross of lorraine, fs belle poule, kite flyers, kite-sufers, Le Quai St-Malo, malo metiers d'art, melon de charentais, no logo, ocean walkers, paddleboard, Place du Marché aux Légumes, plage du mole, plage du Sillon, Quest France, raft, renard, restaurant, rue de dinan, sailing students, scottish terrier

lundi 5 août 2019 – Monday August 5, 2019

The Intra-Muros braderie, sidewalk sales and flea market, is all day today and tomorrow. Our friend Marie Dominque and her twin daughters were at the Place du Marché aux Légumes at 5h30 this morning to set up their items for sale. The girls are now 16 years old and have a lot of toys, stuffed animals, and a little clothing to sell. They use the money for spending all year. Their parents have a few household items and pictures for sale outside of their hotel. We walked around quite a bit, looked at lots of things, but didn’t buy a thing.

pirate-play-raft – the local toy store had this raft ready for Sandy, she declined a ride

We spoke to our neighbor, Madame Dominque, from upstairs and the “Parisian guy” at the end of our street. The “Parisian guy” sells old post cards at many of the braderies.

It drizzled off and on all afternoon. Sandy finished washing our french doors both inside and outside. They are the doors leading to our balcony and have an overhang.

mardi 6 août 2019 – Tuesday, August 6, 2019

On our way out this morning we saw Jean-Michel, our neighbor from #6 on our street. We hadn’t seen him for a couple weeks and wondered if he was out of town. He lives on the 4th floor of his building (the equivalent of 5th in the USA) and complained about the heat during our couple of hot days. He’d just returned from swimming and said he prefers the Plage du Sillon.

We purchased fruit and legumes at the marché. We also stopped at the florist and purchased some lovely small roses.

  • small red and white roses
  • small red and white roses

The beach, Plage du Sillon, was named France’s most beautiful beach last year. This year it is number 2 in France. We’ve taken many pictures up and down and love to walk on it.

In the afternoon we had a little walk by the harbor. The town is very crowded.

Sandy in the foreground wearing robin egg blue getting ready to head into the crowd.

mercredi 7 août 2019 – Wednesday, August 7, 2019

Sandy reads the Saint-Malo tourism site daily to see what events are happening. Today she read, again, about a special fishing event. When the tide is low enough, the city offers fishing lessons for catching EELS! The site encourages people to bring headlamps, wear boots, and to try to be quicker than the eel. It’s not an event we will partake. Ugh!

We took a 5 kilometer walk on the digue. We saw quite a few different activities going on at the beach this morning.

  1. ocean walkers, people wearing wet suits walking chest high in the water
  2. sailing students, a group of children taking lessons on sailing boats
  3. people flying kites
  4. people on paddleboards
  5. kids getting a lesson on how to surf
  6. wind surfers
  7. people surfing, or at least trying to surf
  8. three dogs – dogs ride behind their owner’s bike in a trailer
  • 1 ocean walkers
  • 2 sailing students
  • 3 flying a kite
  • 4 paddleboard
  • 5 learning to surf
  • 6 wind surfers
  • 7 surfers
  • 8 three dogs in their bike trailer

At the boules game this afternoon Philippe, Gavroche the Scottish Terrier owner, introduced himself to us. Guy, the player from the town of Nancy in the east of France, also introduced himself. Geneviève, the female player who teases all of the guys, introduced herself. Geneviève told us we were the “spectateurs fidèles” loyal spectators. We’ve been called worse things 😀.

Pierre told Phil again that he had to play boules with them next year.

It was another beautiful sunny day around 24C (75F).

jeudi 8 août 2019 – Thursday, August 8, 2019

Looks like rain on our way to the boulangerie. We dropped off recycling, garbage, and glass and noticed water coming up from underneath the street across from the recycling area. It was running down the street towards the harbor. It must have been going on for a while since there was quite a stream of water heading down the hill. Hopefully someone will notice a broken pipe. Most of France is under water conservation due to lack of rain since early spring and they won’t want any water to go to waste.

Today was Sandy’s day to visit her French teacher Christine in the Paramé area of Saint-Malo. Phil got to do the grocery shopping.

After lunch we walked to see if they were playing boules. They were not! We did see Madam Yvonne reading under the trees. We stopped to say hello and she invited us to sit with her. Phil explained how important it was for Sandy to listen to the conversation. She agreed and was happy to help Sandy improve her listening skills. Yvonne also told us she has a house in Rennes (an hour away) and spends April to mid September each year in Saint-Malo. She was 88 years old and had taken a trip to California when she was 80.

vendredi 9 août 2019 – Friday, August 9, 2019

Sandy read in the newspaper Ouest-France that there are strong wind warnings for this afternoon, evening, and strong waves on the ocean. There was a red flag flying at the Plage du Mole meaning it is hazardous to be in the water. We also read where all nautical activities should be well planned and preparations taken. It was advised to securely attach all tents and marquees.

red flag at the life guard station indicating dangerous surf

We saw the sailing ship Renard (Fox) depart from the harbor and were glad we weren’t onboard. It will be a rough, rocky sailing.

the RENARD (FOX) setting out from the harbor

Christine invited us to come for an aperitif this evening at the “usual” time of 18h. We had a very nice time with Christine and her husband Michel. They served champagne, cherry tomatoes, rillette du pork, chips, cake with ham and vegetables inside, and melon de Charentais.

melon de Charentais – By Marius Kant – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link

A Charentais melon is a type of cantaloupe melon, Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis. It is a small variety of melon, similar in flesh to cantaloupes, but with a more fragrant smell. It was developed in western France around 1920 as a more refined cantaloupe. Most are now produced in North Africa, with some limited production in the United States.

Wikipedia contributors, “Charentais melon,” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Charentais_melon&oldid=860915735 (accessed August 11, 2019).

Michel insisted on driving us home in his Citroën station wagon. It is always good to have a chauffeur.

samedi 10 août 2019 – Saturday, August 10, 2019

On our way back to our apartment from the boulangerie we met our neighbor Madame Bertin’s brother. Her brother’s name is Jacques-Louis and he is a fluent English speaker. He is retired now, but he told us he had worked in the U.K. and Saudi Arabia for ARAMCO. Interesting.

We took a short walk to the basin and found that a nice sail boat was moored there. The FS BELLE POULE is a French navy training ship. It is actually classified as a schooner.

  • schooner FS BELLE POULE
  • French naval jack with the cross of Lorraine

The french words “BELLE POULE” translate to “BEAUTIFUL HEN”. Here is the story behind the name.

The name Belle Poule derives from an incident in 1533. Francis I was presented with the keys of Toulouse by Paule de Viguier, the baroness Fronteville. Paule was a young girl known for her beauty, and Francis nicknamed her la belle Paule. The name became altered over time to belle poule through the difference between French and Occitan pronunciation.[1] The name was later adopted by a Gironde corsair for his vessel, giving rise to it as a ship name in the French navy.
Another version of the story is that Francis called her belle poule, as a play on words. The word belle is “beautiful”, while poule is a reference to her name, Paule, but also means “chick”, which in French, as it was later in English, can refer to a young girl.

Wikipedia contributors, “French ship Belle Poule,” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=French_ship_Belle_Poule&oldid=858016935 (accessed August 11, 2019).

Again this morning the wind is strong. Sandy read in the newspaper Quest-France that a tornado touched down on the border between Luxembourg and France. It damaged over 100 homes and is quite rare there. There were many train delays due to downed power lines caused by the wind in the north and west of France.

We took a walk on the beach. The wind was at our backs as we started out, but was in our face on the return. The wind was so strong that there were small waves of sand blowing along the beach. In the water, the waves were breaking hard against the small exposed islands.

waves breaking against the small exposed islands a few hundred feet from the beach

A music festival taking place this weekend called “No Logo” also experienced wind delays . Since they are primarily using tents for stages, etc., it wasn’t safe for festival goers to be allowed onto the site until the wind calmed down.

“No Logo BZH is steadily establishing itself as one of the top reggae festivals in Europe. Spread across three glorious days in the historic port city of Saint-Malo in northern France, the festival maintains a sense of independence and, as its name suggests, is all about the music.”)

https://www.festicket.com/festivals/no-logo-bzh/2019/

The crowd was really thick today on the Rue de Dinan, the main road in the Intra-Muros.

We did not take on the crowd. We took a short cut through a series of side streets.

dimanche 11 août 2019 – Sunday, August 11, 2019

Just after noon we walked over to the QUAI SAINT-MALO to attend an artisans exhibition called “MALO MÉTIERS D’ART.” We walked around and found two vendors which had some items we really liked. This was the first year for each vendor at the exhibition.

After attending the artisans show we walked over to the restaurant B’Art à Thé. We had a wonderful mid-afternoon meal.

  • Phil’s mystery fish item
  • Sandy’s bruschetta
  • citrus cake and red fruit cake for dessert

How to view additional photos.

You can view an album of photos by clicking one of the following links. The photo album will open in a new browser window with the photos.

Click here for all the July photos in France

Click here for all the June photos in France

Click here for photos of La Roseraie Saint-Anne

Click here for the photos in Paris

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the week ending July 28, 2019 – la semaine se terminant le 28 juillet 2019

29 Monday Jul 2019

Posted by philipdenotto in 2019-France

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

cabin cruiser, canoe, captain taxi, Christine, condor ferry, cormorant, corsaire ferry, divers, diving platform boat, haircuts, Médiathèque, paddleboard, plage du mole, sailboat, silver wind, studio 3, tender

lundi 22 juillet 2019 – Monday July 22, 2019

A morning full of boats! We did not have anything special in mind for this morning, so we decided to take our camp chairs and head to the harbor. Most of the time there is something going on in the harbor and our chairs are nicer to sit on than the wooden benches at the harbor.

Within the first 75 minutes at the harbor, the following events occurred.

  • Spotted a cruise ship, the Silver Wind flying a flag from the Bahamas, moored in the harbor-too large to go through the locks.
  • Three of the Corsair Ferries arrived and departed for Dinard just across the Bay.
  • Two of the cruise ship’s tenders transported passengers back and forth.
  • A “working flat boat” docked in the harbor and two divers dove underwater. Both wearing wet suits. One with a helmet and air hose connected to the ship, the other with a tank and mouthpiece. Couldn’t tell what they were doing.
  • Captain Taxi arrived with passengers and departed with more passengers.
  • Six sailboats came through the locks and went out to sea.
  • The Condor Ferry arrived, unloaded cars, trucks + passengers and departed for the U.K. island of Guernsey.
  • A man standing on a paddleboard arrived and got out on the ramp.
  • A canoe with 4 people arrived and got out on the ramp.
  • A cormorant sea-bird appeared exactly in front of us, dove, then left the area.
  • AND Sandy got sun burnt in that little bit of time. The shirt she was wearing had shorter length arms and a lower neck line than usual.
  • cruise ship Silver Wind
  • Silver Wind tender
  • Condor Ferry
  • paddleboard
  • sailboat
  • cabin cruiser
  • canoe
  • Corsaire Ferry
  • Captain Taxi
  • dive platform boat
  • the cormorant was about 20 yards in front of us, Sandy luckily spotted it

We could not figure out what the divers were doing, but they were underwater for over 30 minutes.

Divers working from the dive platform boat.

After a lovely 3 kilometer walk on the beach in the afternoon at low tide we’d had enough outdoors for one day. Lovely, windy, and just a little warm in the sun. High of 23C (74F),

beach video

mardi 23 juillet 2019 – Tuesday, July 23, 2019

The forecast for today is HOT, a high of 34C (93F). It’s cooler here than in Paris where they’re expecting 38C (100F). Paris is expecting temperature highs in the 40’s the next 3 days. Glad we’re not there!

We went into the ocean just before noon! We walked to the Plage du Mole (beach of the breakwater) at high tide. The co-efficient was 60, so a fairly low-high tide. There was plenty of beach remaining and we didn’t walk far to reach the water. This is a very nice, sandy, beach and the shortest distance to walk from our apartment, about 6 minutes. The water was cold! The water temperature was 19C (66F). It was very refreshing but a shock to your system each time we dunked our shoulders underwater. We walked at the waters edge a few times and the current was strong. Parents really needed to watch their children because the pull back out of the waves almost knocked Sandy down. Lovely time on a very warm day.

  • half way in
  • two-thirds in
  • shoulders in

We ate the equivalent of a large chef salad for dinner.

mercredi 24 juillet 2019 – Wednesday 24 July 2019

Sandy met with her tutor, Christine for two hours. Phil accompanied Sandy from the bus stop to Christine’s house to see the improvements made by the city on the sidewalk and street. Phil shopped for pineapple yogurt for himself and rhubarb yogurt for Sandy before heading for the hardware store. He wanted to buy a small bracket to hang keys on but didn’t have much luck.

  • flowers …
  • we see on …
  • the way to …
  • Christine’s house

Today was another day of hot weather. Sandy stayed inside in the afternoon but Phil watched the boules game and talked to Alain and others. It was pleasant in the shade but too hot in the sun.

Phil read in the paper where the actual humidity in Paris was 19% with an air temperature of 40C (104F). Sounds like desert weather to us!

jeudi 25 juillet 2019 – Thursday 25 July 2019

We were out of the house by 8h30 to shop at the Intermarche grocery store. The store was already busy just 15 minutes after opening. We walked to the store since the temperature was still tolerable.

On our return, the bus was ready to pull away from the stop as we approached and Sandy waved in hope they’d wait. We made it!. We both thanked the driver for waiting for us. They usually don’t wait!

There was little to no wind this morning, but the air coming up from the Sahara Desert is supposed to shift around to the northwest by this evening. The high for today was 30C (86F) and the forecast for tomorrow is 20C (68F), much improved! Still hot.

Before lunch, we again walked to the Plage du Mole. High tide was at 13h00 so there wasn’t too much beach to walk through in order to reach the ocean. Cold, cold, cold was how it felt! The water temperature had warmed up though to 20C (70F). We spent a longer time in the water today than we had on Tuesday. Sandy actually swam a little and after your body was shocked with freezing water, it was very pleasant.

  • Phil, who cannot float
  • Sandy, who floats very easily

After returning, we felt much cooler and comfortable than we did in the morning. The cooler front came through late in the afternoon and it rained over night. Much better.

vendredi 26 juillet 2019 – Friday 26 July, 2019

It rained over night as the streets were wet when we walked to the boulangerie.

Today was the day for our second hair cut in France at Studio 3. The lady that cut Sandy’s hair was the same lady that cut it last year, the assistant. The owner of the shop cut Phil’s hair again this year. We are both very happy with the result. We made an appointment for the last week of August, in five weeks, before we leave for the USA.

Sandy after another successful haircut.

The city workers made the final repairs on the parking post behind our apartment building. Sandy took a photo of it this morning. We’ll see just how long it lasts with August a week away.

The newly replaced parking prevention post.

samedi 27 juillet 2019 – Saturday July 27, 2019

We walked to an art sculpture demonstration by artist Damien Colcumbet near the Rocabey market. We watched him while he was creating a rhinoceros out of clay, but the building was NOT air conditioned and we didn’t stay very long. Phil noted a picture in the studio was priced at 5 000€ euros.

Next we walked through the interior portion of the market to look for PIQUILLOS, the delicious sweet, non spicy pepper we have eaten this summer. We didn’t see any but spotted many vendors with green rhubarb, and courgettes rond (round zucchini). We walked through the exterior aisles but didn’t see anything we wanted.

Our next stop the was the Médiathèque la Grande Passerelle (new city library). We wanted to see the exhibition on the Moon Landing. After asking two different people, we found it. It was not what we expected, even after Sandy carefully read the description on the Saint-Malo tourism site. There were only about 8 posters and no photos. We had lost something in translation. Oh well, we had a lovely almost 5 kilometer walk.

  • Car chargers are becoming more common.
  • Car charger in the parking lot near us.

dimanche 28 juillet 2019 – Sunday July 28, 2019

This morning ended up being very much like Monday morning. We didn’t have any plans so we walked out to the harbor. It was just after low tide so we were not expecting a lot of activity. Wrong again. The harbor was a busy place once again.

While were at the harbor Sandy saw the cormorant. It was not diving for fish. Rather it was flapping its wings like it was going to fly. A few seconds later it took flight and we were able to get of video of it flying. It always seems to fly just a foot or two above the waves.

2019-07-28-cormorant-flying-mp4

Had a wonderful mid-afternoon dinner at the B’Art à Thé.

  • green salad
  • bruschetta
  • pork tenderloin
  • chocolate cake

After dinner we took a walk on the Mole, the breakwater, to see how crowded the beach was and what was going on in the harbor.

The Plage du Môle, the beach of the breakwater, was very busy.

How to view additional photos.

You can view an album of photos by clicking one of the following links. The photo album will open in a new browser window with the photos.

Click here for all the June photos in France

Click here for photos of La Roseraie Saint-Anne

Click here for the photos in Paris

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