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the week ending August 4, 2019 – la semaine se terminant le 4 août 2019

05 Monday Aug 2019

Posted by philipdenotto in 2019-France

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Boulangerie de la cathédrale, brocante, chez marcel, corsairs malouins, debarquement, digue, el galeon andalucia, entre mer et plage, esplanade saint-vincent, Etoile du roy, gavroche, hotel quic-en-groigne, intermarche, kennedy bus stop, le français, Le pays malouin, Les Corsaires Malouins, paimpol, Place du Marché aux Légumes, plage du mole, porte de dinan, rocabey, Saint-Servan, scottish terrier, solider tower

lundi 29 juillet 2019 – Monday July 29, 2019

The temperature in our apartment this morning was 20C (68F). So much better than a few days last week. The forecast in western France is for very strong winds this afternoon and evening-up to 100 kph (62 mph). That should significantly affect the high tide today.

We wanted to walk along the digue (seawall) this morning and walked towards the Esplanade Saint-Vincent where the bus stop is located. A bus #8, which follows the coast was parked at the stop. We decided to take it to the end of the digue and then walk back. Convenient! Usually this bus is jam packed with people wanting to go to various beaches. Not today. We got off at the Kennedy bus stop and walked along the digue. The tide was out, lots of sea weed at this first beach but very breezy. It was the only place along the entire 4 kilometer walk that we saw a significant amount of sea weed.

  • Beach to the north
  • Beach to the south

Once we reached the Intra-Muros most all of the parking spots were full. Only the underground location had a line to enter and showed spaces remaining. We read in the paper that yesterday was the “change-over weekend” where people vacationing for the month of July were returning and people coming to vacation for August were arriving. We couldn’t see any difference or increase in numbers yet.

We had a nice if brief visit to the Plage du Môle to cool off in the ocean.

  • busy beach with the green flag flying to indicate it is okay to swim
  • Sandy in the ocean but not swimming at the moment.

mardi 30 juillet 2019 – Tuesday, July 30, 2019

It rained over night, but we didn’t hear a thing since our building is made from granite. The weather forecast was for rain and wind this afternoon.

As we walked past the basin this morning we saw the Spanish ship El Galeón Andulucia. It had come in yesterday for a 4 or 5 day visit.

The Spanish ship El Galeón in the basin.

We decided to walk to Saint-Servan, stop at the market, then head to the beach near the Solidor Tower where there is a brocante, an antique sale and flea market every Tuesday. Sandy wore a jacket for the first time since the evening of the July 14th fireworks. The wind hit us in the face as soon as we exited Intra-Muros. It was a constant 25 kph from the southwest with gusts around 40 kph. We held on to each other as we crossed the bridge. There seemed to be a lot of empty parking lots today. Maybe people returned home or stayed away with the weather forecast.

At the marché Sandy wanted round zucchini, having seen so many last Saturday. None today! She bought a yellow pepper and normal shaped zucchini instead. There were only about one third of the usual exterior stalls at the market. We also purchased a little meat at the butcher.

We walked towards the beach in Saint-Servan. Again, the wind was very strong. At the Solidor brocante only about half of the normal amount of displays were outside today.

We walked back over the bridge to return and decided it was too windy to stay outside any longer. We felt like we had fought the wind the entire 4 kilometer trip. In the afternoon there were at least 3 different rain showers. None of them lasted very long or were very strong but the wind continued.

mercredi 31 juillet 2019 – Wednesday 31 July 2019

The last day of July! Where did our time go and how could tomorrow be August already? Lovely cool but sunny morning. The wind from yesterday has moved on. Sandy read in the local paper about two events yesterday. The first, a sailboat with 4 passengers had capsized in the wind and had to be rescued by helicopter. The second, a swimmer, had to be rescued. Both articles repeated warnings to everyone to be aware of the weather when entering water either on foot or on a boat. Ditto for Michigan!!

Sandy met with Christine today. Christine’s daughter, who lives in Paris, is getting married on 12 September 2020 in Saint-Malo. The next year will be exciting for them.

Our afternoon walk again proved interesting. No boules game, possibly due to the wet court, but there was a lot of action on the ramp leading to the ocean. Since this is the 75th anniversary of the Liberation of France there are lots of activities to commemorate the event. There was a group of men dressed in American army uniforms from WW II, a jeep, a tow truck, another vehicle, and the landing craft docked a little way out into the water from the ramp. All of the vehicles appeared to be from the WW II period. We watched, along with many other people, while the soldiers backed the vehicles down the ramp, waded into the ocean, and parked the vehicles on the landing craft. The landing craft had it’s front ramp lowered into the water and indicated it was from Normandy. With all four vehicles, plus a group of men, it moved off slowly into the English Channel. It was bound for Granville on the Cotentin Peninsula in Normandy.

We will have more about the World War II reenactments as we get closer to the date of the liberation of Saint-Malo by the American Army under General Patton on August 17, 1944.

jeudi 1 août 2019 – Thursday August 1, 2019

Cool, humid, and cloudy this morning. We purchased new monthly bus passes and started to walk to the Intermarché. Along the basin we saw the Etoile du Roy and the Le Français leaving the basin for their trip to Paimpol where there is a large festival scheduled for the next few days.

Paimpol is also home to the bi-annual “Festival du chant de marin” (sea shanty festival) which attracts thousands of visitors over three days in August.

Wikipedia contributors, “Paimpol,” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Paimpol&oldid=897649307 (accessed August 4, 2019).
Le Français setting out for Paimpol for the festival.

We did our shopping at the Intermarché grocery store and stopped at the Rocabey market. Sandy purchased two cordon bleu pieces and a piece of Comte cheese by herself. All went well.

As we walked to the bus stop to return, one of the lady boules players arrived. We greeted her and she responded with a smile and a “bonjour”. Nice to be recognized.

Our local paper, Le Pays Malouin (the Malouin country) had many articles concerning the military reenactments which use equipment like we saw at the harbor ramp yesterday.

Chez Marcel was our choice for dinner tonight. They are famous for kebabs. Not the “shish kebobs” that are well known in the USA but shredded lamb, shredded lettuce, fresh tomatoes all piled high in a pita type flat bread. The kebabs are served with belgian style fries and are delicious with their “fait maison” (home made) white sauce.

After eating we enjoyed an ice cream cone, chocolate for Phil, and rhubarb for Sandy from Sanchez as we waited for entertainment. Each Thursday night in August the Les Corsaires Malouins singers sing “Sea Shanties” from the area. To be included as a member of this group you not only have to have been born in Saint-Malo, but also still reside here. There were about 14 singers present last night.

vendredi 2 août 2019 – Friday August 2, 2019

Today was a day of high tide with a co-efficient of 100. We walked to the Porte de Dinan to see the ocean before shopping at the boulangerie. There were only 4 rows of stones showing at the top of the wall. Good thing there was little wind today or there would have been a lot of flooding. There were several warnings in the newspaper reminding tourists to be careful where they park. We’ve seen many cars underwater due to careless parking during a high tide.

Only about 4 rows of blocks are not covered by the high tide water.
The ramp at the harbor under water due to the high tide. The water is crystal clear.

Stopped in to visit with our friends Marie-Dominique and her husband Michel at their HÔTEL QUIC EN GROIGNE. Their hotel is listed as #1 hotel in Saint-Malo. We stayed with them the first two times we visited Saint-Malo for vacations back in 2010 and 2011. They were fine and so is their family.

Our next stop was the post office for stamps and a quick stop at a gallery where we purchased two inexpensive watercolors of the local area. We want to replace two pictures in our bedroom in Michigan and these will look great.

The line at the Boulangerie de la cathédrale at 11h.

We stopped at the boutique named Entre Mer et Plage to buy a key caddy. We found one made out of metal with three sailboats. Very appropriate for here.

Finally we stopped to see our friend Jean-Louis Jacob at his pottery boutique. Sandy purchased a candle for us to take to Michigan and another small gift. He had new fabric bags this year with his logo and Saint-Malo-Quimper on the front. He gave us two since we are good friends and also customers. It was a successful and enjoyable morning.

After watching the boules game for over an hour we headed to the harbor to check out the tide. This mornings 4 rows of stones showing turned into 28 rows of stones showing this afternoon. In fact, the entire wall was out of the water.

In the afternoon the complete wall of granite blocks was out of the water.

samedi 3 août 2019 – Saturday August 3, 2019

On our way to Saint-Servan this morning, we stopped to look at the high tide. It was about the same level as yesterday with a co-efficient of 104.

Saint-Servan was having their summer street wide flea market and we love to look at everything. We didn’t buy a thing, but wandered through the streets for over 5 kilometers, just browsing.

  • Saint-Servan braderie
  • Saint-Servan braderie
  • Saint-Servan braderie

On the way back from Saint-Servan we walked through the Solidor area by the harbor. It always seemed like we walked here at low tide, but today it was a beautiful high tide.

  • Some of the flowers in …
  • … the Solidor area of Saint-Servan.
  • Sandy by a flower bed in the Solidor area of Saint-Servan in Saint-Malo. The Tower Solidor is in the backgroud.

Before going to the apartment, we stopped at the harbor and saw this interesting site, a dog getting off a boat with its life jacket on. Cute and its owners care about its safety.

This dog just got off a boat and still had its life jacket on. Its owners care!

And we also saw the new rescue boat for the fire department.

New rescue boat for the fire department.

We watched the boules game in the afternoon and Pierre talked to Phil about joining them as a player next year. Sandy always thought Pierre had been a professor and Phil asked him. He taught music, especially the coronet. Another player, Philippe owns a white Scottish Terrier named Gavroche. He is a darling dog and very photogenic.

  • Gavroche
  • Gavroche
  • Gavroche
  • Gavroche napping in the sun

Lots, and lots of people with children in town today.

dimanche 4 août 2019 – Sunday August 4, 2019

Happy Anniversary to us! 46 years of marriage today.

We walked to Rocabey to look at the braderie (flea market) sponsored by the Handicapped Society of France. It is a very small event with only 4 tents. The items for sale have been donated by families when someone dies. There was a table full of books, religious artifacts, linens, and antiques / old, but not antique, household goods. Sandy always wants to teach them to organize the linens, but they just heap 4 folding tables with everything. If you’re looking for a pillowcase you literally have to search through dozens of other items. You might be lucky and find something or not.

We walked back along the ocean just after high tide. There was almost no beach all up and down the coast.

  • Looking North no beach!
  • Looking South no beach!

The weather forecast listed the air quality here as “Excellent!” today. We think it’s excellent everyday.

For our mid-afternoon 46th Wedding Anniversary dinner we again ate at the B’Art à Thé on the Place du Marché aux Légumes. We had a nice surprise, we got to taste the chilled cantaloupe melon soup. It was very good. The meal was delicious!

Chilled cantaloupe melon soup

How to view additional photos.

You can view an album of photos by clicking one of the following links. The photo album will open in a new browser window with the photos.

Click here for all the July photos in France

Click here for all the June photos in France

Click here for photos of La Roseraie Saint-Anne

Click here for the photos in Paris

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the week ending July 14, 2019 – la semaine se terminant le 14 juillet 2019

15 Monday Jul 2019

Posted by philipdenotto in 2019-France

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

14th juillet, 3 dogs, ACTIVE freighter, alstroemeria, awning, boules, brown eggs, carrefour hypermarche, Christine, cordon bleu, couregettes, e leclerc, fiddler, harbor, harry's sliced bread, Intra-Muros, le français, motorcycle, ouest france, Place du Marché aux Légumes, plage de bon secours, plage du Sillon, rocabey, round zucchinis, schweppes, tender, the world, zucchinis

A lot of pictures this week! And a couple of videos.

lundi 8 juillet 2019 – Monday July 8, 2019

Today at breakfast Sandy was reading an online story in the local French paper, Ouest-France (West-France), about a dolphin sighting. Yesterday, just off the salt water swimming pool and beach, a pod of 20 dolphins was spotted. That must have been some sight!

We shopped at the large Carrefour hypermarché to replace our bathroom scale and pick up a few items. July is one of the two months when sales are held all over France. There were many discounted shelves and bins to look at.

We took a late afternoon walk on the beach Plage du Sillon. I got really lucky getting the 3 photos in the gallery below. The gull played it perfectly. It looked right. It looked left. Then it took off! Perfect.

  • Get Ready!
  • Get Set!
  • GO!

On our way back we wanted to look at another beach, Plage de Bon Secours, where the swimming pool is located. Apparently we had forgotten the direct path to take and wandered around through small pathways before we reached our destination. Since it was low tide, (the pool is filled when high tide comes in) the sides of the pool were easily visible. Beautiful day with the air temperature of 23C (74F). But with a water temperature of 17C (62F). The water is too cool for us!

  • queuing up at the diving platform
  • the splash after a dive
  • diving @ swimming pool – white circle
  • diving @ swimming pool – white circle
  • diving @ swimming pool – white circle
  • Plage de Bon Secours
  • Plage de Bon Secours and the salt water swimming pool

mardi 9 juillet 2019 – Tuesday, July 9, 2019

Sandy’s feet were a little tender after walking 11 kilometers yesterday.

After picking up strawberries, flat peaches, cherries, lettuce, green beans, and brown mushrooms from our local marché we stopped at the florist stand. Three years ago was the last year the florist had a permanent store at the corner of our street. Since then, she and her husband are “pre-retired” and are selling flowers just at the marché. She is at our local Intra-Muros marché and her husband is at the Saint-Servan marché. Today she had Alstroemeria flowers, a favorite of ours, and we bought a bouquet of 6 pieces.

  • Intra-Muros marché
  • Intra-Muros marché

Next we stopped at the Hôtel de Ville, city hall, to talk to the lady at the reception office. She listened to our plea about parking posts last week. We wrote a thank you note to her and asked her to pass the note on to the officials. She seemed genuinely pleased to be thanked for her part. The work in front of our building is complete and only one post is still missing behind our building. A week is really a quick response here.

Today we noticed a large cruise ship anchored in the harbor. We get four or five of these ships each summer. They are too large to go through the lock (écluse) into the basin, so they anchor in the middle of the bay. Tenders are used to shuttle passengers from and to the ship. There was even roof top seating on the tender boats. This ship is “The World.”

  • tender returning to THE WORLD
  • THE WORLD
  • THE WORLD cruise ship

The World is a private residential community-at-sea. There are only 165 individual homes on the ship. Yes, you read that correctly, 165 individual homes on the ship. You can read more about The World by clicking this link.

Sandy found the following information about The World on the internet.

  • largest private residential yacht in the world
  • on-board apartments
  • only 165 residences
  • priced from $2 to $20 million
  • studio, one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments
  • a six-bedroom penthouse suite
  • annual maintenance fees which can range from $60,000 to $270,000
  • owners get to help choose the destinations
  • approximately 20 countries are represented
  • a movie theater
  • grocery store
  • five restaurants

When I first saw this ship and the number of decks on it I thought there might be one or two thousand passengers. As it turns out there are usually only 150 to 200 passengers (owners and guests). There are 280 crew members.

We’re guessing this is for the 1%’ers of the 1%’ers. Very, very fancy and only for the very wealthy!

mercredi 10 juillet 2019 – Wednesday 10 July 2019

On our walk back from the Rocabey Intermarché, we saw the LE FRANÇAIS moored in the basin. It is a 3 mast sailing boat for hire. You can find more information at this link.

  • LE FRANÇAIS
  • LE FRANÇAIS

Last weekend Phil had used “Harry’s” sliced bread to make bread crumbs for the meatballs . Harry’s is a French company which makes American sandwich breads. We bought eggs last week too, so we had both eggs and bread left. Sandy used them to make French toast for lunch. The eggs sold in France are almost always brown, from brown hens, and are never refrigerated in the store. They’re on a shelf in the store similar to cereal or canned goods. They are a beautiful color.

  • egg packaging
  • the eggs
  • the result

jeudi 11 juillet 2019 – Thursday 11 July 2019

Sandy met with her tutor Christine while Phil shopped at the E.Leclerc hypermarché. Christine told Sandy the winter population of Saint-Malo is about 50,000 people. The 14th of July celebration is this Sunday. Another 40,000 people are expected in the area to watch the fireworks at 23h10.

Christine also said she’d been swimming this week. She said the water wasn’t too cold, it had already reached 19C (66F). Can’t imagine water that cold to swim in!

The cruise ship, The World, was still moored in the harbor this afternoon when we watched the boules game. After the boules game we walked to the harbor. Got lucky and spotted a cormorant in the harbor. Got really lucky as I was able to get the camera out just before it decided to take flight.

  • cormorant swimming around
  • cormorant getting ready
  • cormorant takes off

On our way back to the apartment we stopped in the Place du Marché aux Légumes to people watch and listen to a performer. Here is a short clip of his performance.

Fiddler in Place du Marché aux Légumes video

vendredi 12 juillet 2019 – Friday 12 July, 2019

Today it is cloudy, cool and the air is full of moisture. It is barely sprinkling. The drops are so fine you can hardly see them at all. But, you can definitely feel drops on your arms.

The restaurant on our corner is getting a very large awning on our side of their building. It will provide shade in the heat of the day and protection from rain. They have 3 tables under the awning. They must be doing a pretty good business to afford such an addition.

  • small white van of the guys installing the awning
  • getting ready to lift the awning
  • lifting the awning
  • adjusting the mounting
  • the awning is up, open and being adjusted

Around 15h30 we tried to take a walk on the beach. High tide was expected at 16h30 with a co-efficient of 57 which means it is a very low high tide. We walked a ways then were running out of beach. The waves were washing towards us but we saw one of the stairways up to the digue and quickly made it before our feet were wet. Back to the harbor for us!

  • beach at a low high tide looking north
  • beach at a low high tide looking south

On our way to the harbor we went past one of the basins. We have been watching the freighter ACTIVE unload it’s cargo in the basin. It started unloading on the 8th of July and by the 12th it was completely unloaded. Not sure why it took so long, but then again that might be normal.

  • sitting low in the water starting to unload on 8 July
  • sitting high in the water after unloading 12 July

samedi 13 juillet 2019 – Saturday July 13, 2019

Saturday morning we took a walk to the Rocabey marché. On the way we witnessed the following interesting event.

Saturday morning, a man, a motorcycle and 3 dogs

The man on the motorcycle zoomed past us with no dogs. They were running behind him trying to catch up. He eventually stopped and they all jumped on the motorcycle.

We had seen this man and his 3 dogs on the motorcycle before. Another time we saw him on a bike with one dog and the two others in an attached cart. He had always zipped past before I could get my camera ready. This time he sped by us with no dogs. About 100 meters ahead he stopped and let the dogs catch up. The first 2 jumped on to the motorcycle. The 3rd was too tired to jump up and had to be lifted on to the motorcycle. Then they sped off.

Saturday morning after the man and his dogs

Saturday morning at the Rocabey marché was interesting with a big crowd.

We wanted to buy a couple of Cordon Bleus from a new vendor Sandy had noticed the other day. We also were looking for round zucchinis (couregettes). If we found the round zucchinis we then wanted to by some tomato stuffing (farci a tomate) to use in the zucchinis.

The marché was incredibly crowded. Every vendor seemed to have ten to fifteen people in line. But we found everything we needed even if it took a while.

Sandy had found a recipe for stuffed round zucchinis and wanted to try it.

I took the short video below while I was in line for 20 minutes at the butchers in the Rocabey marché. To make the video larger click on the symbol for full screen in the lower right part of the video.

Rocabey marché video

Tonight we are trying a new restaurant, B’Art à Thé, a tearoom which serves mainly vegetarian dishes. It is 5 minutes from the apartment on the Place du Marché aux Légumes.

  • view of place du marché aux Légumes from terrace table
  • brandade potate cabillaud
  • torte & salad
  • dessert

dimanche 14 juillet 2019 – Sunday July 14, 2019

Today is the French National Day (Fête nationale) also called The Fourteenth of July (Quatorze juillet). Tonight at 23h10 there will be a large fireworks display here in the Intra-Muros section of Saint-Malo. The fireworks will be set off from the breakwater (mole) and are supposed to last about one-half hour. That is a lot of fireworks!

14th July Fireworks – 48 seconds

Left the apartment at 22h55 for the 5 minute walk to the Fireworks area. After 20 minutes of fireworks, which were great, we walked back to the apartment and were in bed by 23h45.

How to view additional photos.

You can view an album of photos by clicking one of the following links. The photo album will open in a new browser window with the photos.

Click here for all the June photos in France

Click here for photos of La Roseraie Saint-Anne

Click here for the photos in Paris

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