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~ Nos expériences dans la ville des corsaires. – Our experiences in the city of the corsairs.

à Saint-Malo – in Saint-Malo

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le semaine se terminant le dimanche 19 août 2018 – the week ending Sunday August 19, 2018

19 Sunday Aug 2018

Posted by philipdenotto in 2018-France

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

boulangère, boulangerie, BRETAGNE, brittany ferries, chez marcel, coiffeuse, condor ferries, corsaire ferry, digue, e leclerc, esplanade saint-vincent, ferret, gulls, interemarche, kroger, Paramé, plage de mole, plage du Sillon, rocabey, rocabey marche, Saint-Malo, sea cloud ii, titi-gil

If you want to see the album of our pictures from June 2018, you can click on this link, June 2018.

If you want to see the album of our pictures from July 2018, you can click on this link, July 2018.

le lundi 13 août 2018 – Monday August 13, 2018

Two French military jeeps, each with 5 soldiers and machine guns, were driving through the streets when Sandy walked to the boulangerie. We’ve seen them several times walking, but not driving around.

We took care of some household chores in the morning.

After lunch, we wanted to walk to the north end of the Digue and return by bus. When we arrived at the Esplanade St. Vincent, a #8 bus was waiting. So we stepped on the bus, and got off at the Digue stop heading north. We walked on the Digue to the northern end. We did hear a whistle blow several times, couldn’t figure out where it was coming from, or what it was about. As we neared a second story overlook, a lifeguard called out, “no dogs on the beach please”. There are signs indicating dogs are forbidden on the beach, but few people pay attention to the sign. There was a large dog playing with his owner in front of the building and as we watched, he put the leash back on the dog. It looked like they were getting ready to leave, heeding the lifeguard apparently. We also saw two policeman on bikes patrolling the Digue.

We exited the Digue, then walked uphill to Paramé and boarded a #3 bus at the Rousses stop. The bus just happened to be passing by so we signaled to the driver that we wanted the bus. That took us back to our starting point. An excellent hour-long walk. The sun was shining, no jacket needed, and lots of board surfers, and kite surfers to watch.

some odd clouds on the horizon, probably a weather front

strange clouds on the horizon, distinct cloud like is probably a front

 

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kids were sand surfing on the Plage du Rochebonne

le mardi 14 août 2018 – Tuesday August 14, 2018

Today was haircut day for the 3rd time in France. The coiffeuse (woman hairdresser) was very busy but we only waited a few minutes. Sandy told the coiffeuse her last cut was too short on the sides of her head. This time the coiffeuse didn’t use a razor at the end but “thinning” type scissors. Sandy was very pleased with the result. We made an appointment for our last cut on September 11.

After lunch we wanted to buy some sandpaper. A store called Titi-Gil is close to the Intermarché grocery store in Rocabey and carries many items. It is called a “destockage” store meaning it carries items other stores are getting rid of or selling when the store closes. They carry clothing, household goods, cans, bottled food, wine, hardware, beach items, and linens. Sandy found jars of jam with Kroger labels on them. We stopped in the store and bought a package of sandpaper for 1€50.

Next we walked to the Digue heading north, reached the end, and decided to walk back. We saw a lady carrying what Sandy thought was a weasel in her arms. She walked down the stairs to the beach and put down the animal she was carrying. We decided it was a ferret, wearing a harness and leash. The ferret proceeded to start digging a large hole in the sand. Whether it wanted to hide or was searching for it’s dinner we don’t know. A bizarre site on the beaches of Saint-Malo.

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kids learning to sail

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we’re guessing this is a ferret on a leash getting a walk on the beach – weird

le mercredi 15 août 2018 – Wednesday August 15, 2018

We planned to shop at the Intermarché grocery store after breakfast. We walked to the bus stop, then realized when looking at the arrival time posted that today was a holiday. It is the day of Assumption a religious holiday. The bus company considers it a holiday too and was running buses on a Sunday schedule. We didn’t wait too long, either coming or going and were soon back home. We’ll need to remember today being a “bus holiday” for next year .

The high temperature today was 21C, 69F. It was cloudy most of the day. Late in the afternoon we walked to the harbor to see what was going on. The tide was on it’s way out and we watched the water disappear from underneath the moored boats. Earlier in the week at high tide, we had counted only 3 visible cement blocks from the top of the water to the street. Today there must have been 20 visible cement blocks and the water was still receding. Quite interesting to watch!

merged

same spot on the harbor wall, the small insert photo is high tide the bigger picture is a low tide

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a lot of gulls circling above the harbor

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the Sea Cloud II was back in the basin this week – a beautiful ship

We enjoyed a kebab at Chez Marcel for dinner eating outside and watching all of the comings and goings of all the people.

le jeudi 16 août 2018 – Thursday August 16, 2018

Today Sandy spent two hours with her tutor Christine. On the walk to the bus at 9h30 there were more than 500 empty parking spaces around the Esplanade Saint-Vincent. On Sandy’s return walk at 12h40, there were only 8 spaces remaining and people were waiting in line in their cars at the entrances to the lots. Another big day for tourists!

While walking to and from Christine’s house you get to pass a large number of wonderful gardens with all kinds of flowers.  Here is a sample.

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While Sandy was at the tutor, Phil went shopping at the E.Leclerc Hypermarche.  On returning to the Esplanade Saint-Vincent after shopping Phil saw two young boys looking rather lost.  They approached him and spoke in both French and English.  They were looking for the Corsaire Ferries terminal.  So Phil was able to explain to them how to get there.  But rather than letting them walk alone he accompanied them to the terminal.  They had traveled from Paris on the train this morning.  They were going to their Grandmother’s house in Dinard, across the harbor.  The oldest boy was maybe 15 and his brother must have been around 10 or 11.  We had some nice small talk on the walk.

In the afternoon the temperature dropped to 17C, 63F, and rained off and on. All of the flowers need refreshing and reviving.

Sandy was able to FaceTime with Michael at noon his time. So nice to hear his voice and see his face.

le vendredi 17 août 2018 – Friday August 17, 2018

Today is National Thrift Store Day in the United States. We hope everyone finds a good buy at their favorite store.

Sandy shopped at the Intra-Muros marché for fruit today. She likes to arrive by 9h15 to avoid the “rush”. Monsieur Alex and his assistants take plenty of time with her at that time of the morning.

Next we walked to Saint-Servan to shop at the butcher. It was a lovely morning, cool and partly sunny with no chance of rain. We purchased our meat, walked around the exterior stalls and headed for home.

We sat on a bench at the harbor and watched boats come and go about an hour before high tide. Since there hadn’t been any chance of rain and the sun was shining, we were very surprised to feel rain falling. We moved under a tree and it stopped in about 10 minutes. We weren’t the only ones caught by a surprise shower. There were quite a few people standing under neighboring trees before it stopped.

We did see a cat in a back pack today, which is rare.  Always many more dogs than cats.

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cute little cat, probably a teenager, attempting to get out of the back pack

Across the harbor the Brittany Ferries ship BRETAGNE was loading caravans.

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Brittany Ferries ship BRETAGNE loading a caravan

le samedi 18 août 2018 – Saturday August 18, 2018

The temperature was 13C, 55F, a little cool when Sandy walked to the boulangerie. She was woken up around midnight last night and could see the results this morning. At the top of the steps behind our apartment the restaurant had their outdoor planter damaged. It was a very large planter with a palm tree inside. It looked heavy enough that it needed two or three people to move it. It had been lifted off it’s bottom container and all of the gravel on top of the dirt dumped on the ground. Then it had been left in the center of the top step. Not nice!

On our way to the Esplanade Saint-Vincent we saw American, Canadian, and British flags flying next to the French flag on top of the wall by the Castle.

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BRITISH, CANADIAN, FRENCH and AMERICAN FLAGS on the castle wall

We walked on the Digue from the north end to the south end, after taking the #3 bus to the Rousses bus stop in Paramé. It was a very pleasant mid day with a lot of wind. High tide was only 20 minutes away but with a co-efficient of 62 the Digue did not have any water washing over it. There were many surfers in the water.

A curious thing on the digue today, the cat we saw at the harbor was taking its owners for a walk on the digue.

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cat taking its owners for a walk on the digue

Later in the afternoon we spent some time on the harbor watching boats come and go.

le dimanche 19 août 2018 – Sunday August 19, 2018

On Sandy’s walk to the boulangerie, she was almost hit by a low flying seagull. It was one of the new birds, born this year, almost completely covered in brown feathers. Possibly it wasn’t skilled to fly high and was just testing it’s wings. Anyway, it’s a good thing Sandy can move quickly and to the side or they would have collided.

Another interesting note, Sandy saw a large car, double parked with it’s motor running on the street outside of the boulangerie . This is not normal. She noticed the bumper sticker which said, “I love nothing! I am Parisian!”, which would seem to fit in with their superiority complex. Inside the boulangerie a man was trying to put the lid on two “to-go” cups of coffee he had purchased. He didn’t get them on correctly and he dripped coffee on the floor all of the way out of the door . The madam said she would clean it up and to be careful. The boulangerie was busy with 3 of the 4 tables on the terrace occupied, a few tables in back occupied and Sandy was 5th in line.

Between 11:30 and 13:30 we watched the sailboats gather together to “parade” to Cancale for the remaining day of the “Branlebas de Régates : La mer en Fête” which is a 4 day race.

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we set up our chairs on the wall to watch the boats on parade

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some of the boats which participated in the parade

Over the eight years we have traveled to Saint-Malo we have seen many people fishing from the môle (breakwater), especially at high tide.  Today for the first time we saw someone catch a fish and it was a pretty good size fish.

guy caught a fish at high tide in the harbor

this guy caught a good size fish at high tide in the harbor

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le semaine se terminant le dimanche 12 août 2018 – the week ending Sunday August 12, 2018

12 Sunday Aug 2018

Posted by philipdenotto in 2018-France

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

alain, boulangerie, commodore goodwill, condor ferries, digue, e leclerc, esplanade saint-vincent, grande maree, interemarche, maison du pain, Paramé, parame mairie, Place de la POISSONNERIE, Place du Marché aux Légumes, plage de mole, plage du Sillon, rocabey, rocabey marche, Saint-Malo, sea cloud ii

If you want to see the album of our pictures from June 2018, you can click on this link, June 2018.

If you want to see the album of our pictures from July 2018, you can click on this link, July 2018.

le lundi 6 août 2018 – Monday August 6, 2018

Today was the first day of the two-day Intra-Muros braderie. Many individuals had already spread out their blankets, towels, etc to display their items for sale. Sandy just quickly glanced at them as she bought our breakfast.

On her way to the boulangerie she dropped off our recycling at the “center.” There are several “centers” around town both inside and outside the walled city. Today a man was standing in front of the garbage machine with his garbage bag in his hand. He looked at Sandy and appeared to need help.  She was not sure what language he was speaking. She pushed the open button, pulled open the door, the man threw his garbage inside, Sandy shut the door and pushed the compact button. The man said “okay, okay, merci” and they were both on their way. Since the written directions on the garbage machine are in English and French, he apparently did not read either language.

After breakfast we browsed through the many tables of goods for sale. This is a huge sidewalk sale where the majority of main street are full of goods for sale from individuals and the local businesses.

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Intra-Muros braderie at the Place de la POISSONNERIE

We looked at many things but only made a purchase from the Bessec shoe store. Phil has had good luck shopping there the past two years. This year he needed better sandals to walk to the beach. He found a pair of Birkenstock sandals that are made of rubber. They had two bands across the foot and no backs. Perfect for wearing to the beach and easy to put back on after walking in the water.

After lunch we walked to the beach to go wading. There were so many people! The water had warmed up to 20C, 69F and felt wonderful! We walked a different route than usual to avoid the sidewalk sales and the main esplanade Saint-Vincent, where we catch the bus looked like a circus! Great for the local businesses.

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a lot of people on the beach today

le mardi 7 août 2018 – Tuesday July 31, 2018

When Sandy walked to buy our breakfast the streets were fairly quiet. She only noticed one individual setting up her sidewalk sale next to the boulangerie. However, after buying fruit at our marché then shopping for non-perishables at Intermarché grocery store at 10h00 the streets were again crowded.

On the way back from the Intermarché we saw a Republique Française emblem on a building across from the park in Rocabey.  This is the third one we have seen.  We don’t have any idea why they are on certain buildings.

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Republique Française emblem, we have seen 3 of these in town, not sure why they are on display

Apparently Saint-Malo is one of a few spots in Europe or at least France that hasn’t been seriously affected by the heat wave. Our predicted high temperature of 22C, 72F is much better than the predicted high of 37C, 98.6F, in Paris. Since we are less than a 2 1/2 hour train ride this is one of the closest places to get some relief from the heat and enjoy the sea and beach. Let’s hope our luck with temperatures continues through the remainder of August.

Around lunchtime we heard thunder, the skies darkened, and it rained off and on for about an hour and a half. Good! The streets need a wash and the flowers need a drink.

le mercredi 8 août 2018 – Wednesday August 8, 2018

Sandy dropped off recycling on her way to the boulangerie. She thought the streets, sidewalks, and air smelled fresher than yesterday after the rain. The flowers in the Place du Legume aux Marché looked revived. The streets were calm.

Very early in the morning, before sunrise, a large sailing ship arrived in the harbor.  It was the Sea Cloud II.  It left late that same evening.

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the Sea Cloud II sailing ship

Today Sandy spent two hours tutoring with Christine and Phil did a little shopping at E.Leclerc Supermarché. On Sandy’s way from Christine’s house to the bus stop (about a 10 min. walk) a lady driving by pulled over and asked Sandy where the market was in Paramé. Sandy was able to give her simple directions, in French, that were almost correct. Big improvement in Français!

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saw a dog in a window while walking through Paramé to Christine’s house

Alain and his wife came to our apartment for an aperitif. They brought a gift as is normal in France when invited to someone’s house.  It was a nice visit and we discovered that he and his wife do not eat crackers, pretzels, or cashews. Good to know for the future.

le jeudi 9 août 2018 – Thursday August 9, 2018

Sandy shopped at Maison du Pain for our breakfast because it was raining when she woke up. The rain was predicted to come later in the morning, but arrived earlier. It was just a light mist, common for Saint-Malo. As the shop is only 80 steps from our front door it is close enough to avoid needing an umbrella.

It rained off and on until almost 15h00. The sun came out of the clouds and we were on the #8 bus to the Kennedy stop across from the north end of the Digue. Sandy wore a jacket, sneakers and socks since it was only 18C, 65F. We walked towards Intra-Muros straight into the wind. It was so strong that Sandy had to brace herself as she walked to avoid being knocked down. We felt completely wind-blown by the time we returned home. An invigorating walk for sure!

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a few waves in  the water today

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three young gulls taking a nap on the beachr

 

le vendredi 10 août 2018 – Friday August 10, 2018

The temperature had fallen after the rain yesterday and Sandy again wore a jacket to the boulangerie. She took our garbage, glassware, and recycling bag of plastics, paper, and cans to the recycling center. However, it was completely overflowing and she had to leave all of our items outside the depository on the sidewalk, as other people had already left their refuse. What a mess!

Around 11 am we took a bus to the Rocabey stop, went into Intermarche for butter and stopped in the pharmacy for eye drops.

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we saw a magpie (pie in french) in the park by Rocabey on the way to the Intermarché

We walked home, and while it was windy, it wasn’t as strong as yesterday. The high temperature for today was 21C, 70F. Great walking weather.

it was still windy and the gulls were gliding around

it was still windy and the gulls were gliding around

le samedi 11 août 2018 – Saturday August 11, 2018

One of the younger assistants helped Sandy at the boulangerie. She told Sandy that her order was “ une chanson dans ma tête”, like a song in her head. Two croissants and a baguette Festival. Funny how our language sounds to other people, especially in French.

We took a bus to the Paramé Mairie stop to look at the marché. When we were there for tutoring on Wednesday there were so many vendors that their stands were almost encroaching into the street. Big surprise on Saturday! They went someplace else. There were only 4 or 5 stands on Saturday, so nothing interesting to look at. We walked 6 blocks to the Digue and enjoyed a leisurely walk home. According to our “steps” counter in a health app, it was about a 3 mile walk.

In the afternoon we spent some time at the harbor watching boats come and go. The tide was on it’s way in. It was surprising to see how fast all of the anchored boats went from sitting on mud to floating in water.

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the Commodore Goodwill, a cargo ship, always comes into port on Saturday

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after the Commodore Goodwill left the harbor, the Condor Ferries ship came into the harbor

le dimanche 12 août 2018 – Sunday August 12, 2018

It was very quiet when Sandy walked to the boulangerie. This is a day of Grande Marée, exceptionally high tide with a co-efficient of 109. It was very cloudy with rain in the forecast in the morning. Strong winds could make the tide dramatic and disruptive.

Well the tide was high, but there was very little wind, so the waves were minimal.

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the water was very close to the top of the wall in the harbor

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the tide caused all of the Plage de Môle to disappear

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